This is possibly the most persistent misunderstanding about what you need to travel to China: you must buy a VPN, or you'll be cut off from the world.

Most travellers go into full panic mode before their first trip to China — and we did too. We created Outlook email addresses (in case we couldn't use Protonmail) and bought two different VPNs. Neither of them worked at the time.

Then we landed in China with a data package that was included in our mobile subscription, and it turned out that everything worked. Google, Signal, WhatsApp, Protonmail — all of it, as long as we were using roaming on our foreign SIM cards. The moment we connected to wifi? They stopped working.

So let's clear this up properly.

Why roaming (and eSIMs) bypass the firewall

When you use roaming on your foreign SIM, your data is routed through your home carrier's network — outside mainland China. The Great Firewall never touches it. The same goes for travel eSIMs, which route traffic through servers abroad.

That's the entire trick. No VPN, no workarounds.

The cheapest way to stay connected: an eSIM

Roaming works, but depending on your carrier it can get expensive. The cheapest and most convenient option is a travel eSIM — and with an eSIM, no VPN is required.

You can buy one from plenty of providers, like Saily or Yesim. But the cheapest one I've found so far is on Trip.com — they have loads of packages with different data limits, and it works out at roughly half the price of other providers I've seen. For a 2-week trip, you can easily cover all your data needs for $10–15.

One caveat: your phone needs to support eSIMs. My mum went to China with an older iPhone and unfortunately couldn't use one — so check your phone model before you rely on this plan.

When do you actually need a VPN?

There are two situations where a VPN is genuinely necessary:

  • You're using a local Chinese SIM card. Local SIMs go through mainland networks, so everything blocked stays blocked. If this is your plan, you definitely need a VPN.
  • You'll rely on wifi. Hotel wifi, café wifi, airport wifi — all of it runs through mainland networks. No VPN, no Google.

If you do need a VPN, here's my honest advice: do your research shortly before the trip, because which VPNs actually work in China changes all the time. And trust recent first-hand reports from friends or Reddit over what VPN providers or travel bloggers tell you. (More on why in a second.)

Why does everyone tell you that you MUST buy a VPN?

Sadly, this is all down to how traffic monetisation works these days. The easiest way to make any money from a website (and it's still not a lot) is to recommend products — if people click your link and buy something, you get a commission.

VPNs are a fantastic monetisation tool, because they're subscription products. Sometimes the commission keeps coming as long as the person stays subscribed (and we all know how easy it is to forget to cancel a subscription). So there's a strong incentive to tell every single China-bound traveller that a VPN is absolutely essential.

And since everyone who writes on the internet has to make money somehow, you find the same "you MUST get a VPN" advice everywhere — which then gets picked up by Google AI Overviews and ChatGPT, and the myth keeps feeding itself.

(Full transparency: this post contains affiliate links too — for eSIMs. If you buy one through my links, I earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. But this is an honest advice based on what is the most convenient option, not the thing that pays the best)

The short version

  • Roaming on your foreign SIM → everything works, no VPN needed
  • Travel eSIM → everything works, no VPN needed (cheapest option — check Trip.com)
  • Local Chinese SIM → you need a VPN
  • Wifi only → you need a VPN

If you're planning your first trip, you might also want to read how to access Google in China, my list of must-have apps for China, and the complete how-to guide for first-timers.

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One important note – don't think you can go to China and survive without Internet access – you need at least to use WeChat and AliPay for payments, and for that you need Internet access.

FAQ

Do I need a VPN to use Google, WhatsApp or Gmail in China?

No — not if you're using roaming on your foreign SIM card or a travel eSIM. Both route your traffic through networks outside mainland China, so Google, WhatsApp, Gmail, Signal and other Western apps work normally without any VPN. You only need a VPN if you use a local Chinese SIM card or connect to wifi.

Do eSIMs work in China without a VPN?

Yes. Travel eSIMs from providers like Saily, Yesim or Trip.com route data through servers outside mainland China, so all Western websites and apps work without a VPN. It's currently the cheapest and most convenient way to stay connected in China — around $10–15 covers a 2-week trip. The only caveat: your phone must support eSIM, which older models don't.

When do I actually need a VPN in China?

You need a VPN if you plan to use a local Chinese SIM card, or if you'll rely on hotel or public wifi. Both go through mainland networks, where Google, WhatsApp and most Western services are blocked. If you're staying on roaming or an eSIM, you can skip the VPN.

Which VPN works in China?

It changes constantly — a VPN that works today can stop working next month. Do your research shortly before your trip, and trust recent first-hand reports on Reddit over VPN providers or travel blogs, which often have a financial incentive to recommend specific services.

Can I use hotel wifi in China to access Google or WhatsApp?

No. Hotel and public wifi run through mainland Chinese networks, so blocked services like Google, WhatsApp and Gmail won't work — unless you have a working VPN. The simple workaround: stay on your eSIM or roaming data instead of connecting to wifi.

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